Our most important decision is the proper size. If your new bike doesn't fit you right, you won't enjoy riding it. You won't leave our store until we're sure you have the correct size and that your bike is adjusted to fit you just right.

Other considerations such as frame material, type of suspension and componentry are somewhat determined by the price range and type of the bike. However, we've included these factors to help in your decisions.

Last, but not least - Price. We all have budgets to live by, but don't sell yourself short. A few extra dollars spent now will insure many years of riding pleasure. You do get what you pay for in bicycles so take advantage of that fact and treat yourself a little.

Aluminum
Aluminum also known as Alloy is found on many different price point bikes from low end recreational to high end professional. Aluminum frames are stiff and very energy efficient. What makes the difference between a cheap alloy frame and a high-end frame? Comes from the way the frames are manufactured such as butting of the tubes. (Thinning of the thickness of tubing walls) and heat-treating.

Heat-treating of aluminum: The initial strength of alloys in this group is enhanced by the addition of alloying elements such as copper, magnesium, zinc, and silicon. Since these elements in various combinations show increasing solid solubility in aluminum with increasing temperature, it is possible to subject them to thermal treatments that will impart pronounced strengthening. These treatments include solution heat treatment, quenching and precipitation or age, hardening. By the proper combination of solution heat treatment, quenching, cold working and artificial aging, the highest strengths are obtained.

A common feature on today's Hybrids, Comfort and Mountain bikes is a suspension fork and seatpost.

These compress to absorb impacts from bumps, cracks, ruts and obstacles. This ensures that you remain in control even over rough surfaces. And it also insulates you from jolts for a smoother and more comfortable ride. Most forks employ coil springs or elastomers.

Suspension seatposts are another excellent feature found on Comfort bikes and Hybrids. These provide an excellent and lightweight way to soften bumps and add comfort right where it's needed most. They absorb vibration and impacts that would otherwise be transmitted to your seat and lower back. You’ll love how they smooth rough terrain and pothole-covered roads.

Keep in mind that, should you find a bike you love that happens not to come with a suspension seatpost (not all Comfort bikes and Hybrids come with them), it's possible to add a suspension seatpost, too (sold separately).

A Bike's wheels have a big effect on how a bike rides.

Hubs. Try to stick with one-piece alloy hubs with rubber wiper axle seals to keep dust, dirt and moisture out. The best hubs use fewer spokes and have sealed bearings.

Spokes.  Straight gauge stainless steel spokes won't rust. Double butted (thick on the ends, thin in the middle) stainless spokes reduce weight while retaining strength. Premium stainless steel butted spokes will reduce spoke count and if they are flat, will also improve aerodynamics.

Rims.  Aluminum rims are lighter in weight, won't rust and provide better braking power. Double wall aluminum rims provide greater strength and durability. T6 heat treated rims with reinforced spoke holes give the best performance.

One of the greatest advances in bicycle technology is improvements in gearing, which makes it easier than ever to change gears and to cover even challenging terrain comfortably. Today's bikes come with a variety of easy-shifting and hill-conquering gearing options.

Most bikes come with a 21- 24- or 27-speed drivetrain to give you a wide range or riding possibilities. On flat surfaces, you might only use 3 or 4 gears, but when you hit hills or a big headwind, or you have a wide open road ahead, you'll be glad you have that range.

Don't be overwhelmed by so many speeds. Most cranks (where the pedals are) have 3 chainrings. Most freewheels (that cluster of sprockets on the rear wheel) have 7 to 9 sprockets. So , by shifting the front gear (using the shift lever on the left), you are basically riding a 3-speed. That's not so overwhelming is it? And by shifting the rear gear (using the shift lever on the right), you're making small changes within each of the 3 speeds.
Most riding is done with the chain on the middle chainring of the crank. This is the middle range. By adjusting the rear gear, you can keep up a comfortable riding pressure and pace in changing terrain,speed and wind conditions. Shifting the chain to the smaller (inner) chainring on the crank puts you in the lowest pedaling range which is great for hills or rough terrain. Conversely, shifting to the larger (outer) chainring, puts you in the highest pedaling range which is great for open road and distance riding at higher speeds.

One important thing to remember - It's not how hard you pedal, but how fast you pedal that gives you the best exercise and lets you enjoy longer rides without needlessly wearing yourself out. As in any sport, it's best to follow the professional's lead. Bike professionals rely on cadence (rate of pedaling) and not on force. A faster cadence helps the blood flow in your legs keeping that oxygen flowing to your muscles and decreasing that burning sensation which is a buildup of lactic acid due to poor circulation. It also reduces the stress on the bike which allows it to function as it was designed. Riding in a harder gear than you need only wears you out faster and causes the bike frame to flex sideways in the rear ruining any advantages built into the design of the bike and also greatly increases wear on your whole drivetrain. Cycling is not like weightlifting, it relies on speed not power.

Regardless of which gearing you choose, you'll find that modern bikes shift with the flick of a wrist via motorcycle-style twist shifters, or a simple push of a button-style lever. You no longer have to "feel" for the gear when shifting, either. You just click the bike into gear and it's suddenly easier to pedal. You'll love it and it ends all worries about shifting. In fact, many Comfort and Hybrid bikes even include a display that lets you know exactly what gear you’re in!

These modern bicycles feature advanced braking, too. Which means you have more control over speed and the ability to stop fast with very little hand effort. If it's been a while since you've ridden, you'll be impressed with the new systems, which rival power brakes in an automobile.

Most Comfort bikes, Hybrids and Mountain bikes are equipped with either rim brakes called V-Brakes, linear- or direct-pull brakes or hub brakes, which are integral to the front and/or rear hubs. While still somewhat rare on these types of bicycles, you may also see some featuring disc brakes, the newest brake type, which sport calipers and rotors at the center of the wheels, car-style. Disc brakes offer excellent braking and low maintenance, however, they generally fall in a more expensive category.

In general, any given bicycle will have brakes suited to the riding use it was designed for. For example, V-Brakes are powerful stoppers and excellent for all-round riding, from casual neighborhood rambles to commuting every workday, even in nasty weather.

Hub brakes are usually found on bicycles designed for less rigorous riding and trade durability and low maintenance for maximum stopping power.

Though not found on many Hybrid or Comfort bikes yet, disc brakes offer excellent braking and low maintenance, however, they fall in the most expensive category.

By the way ... the right brake lever is for the rear and the left is for the front. Safety-wise, it's best to slow down or begin your breaking with the rear brake then use your front brake for the final breaking power. If you slam on the front brake only, you might end up doing some acrobatics you didn't plan on. It also helps to squeeze one of the brake levers when you get on your bike ... it keeps the bike from rolling out from under you.

And last, but certainly not least, the seat (saddle). As you wouldn't want to drive in a car that has wooden seats, you also don't want to ride a bike with an uncomfortable saddle. Many rides are ruined by a sore behind. But don't despair. Relief is in sight.

You may not be able to tell by looking, yet one of the components most improved on bicycles is the seat. Engineers and designers have pulled out all the stops to provide ergonomics and comfort features to make these seats so comfy you're likely to remain seated at stops while your ride partners are resting on the grass.

You'll find anatomical shapes, cutouts to eliminate pressure on soft tissue (which prevents numbness and pain), flexible frames, gel padding and cushioning springs. Sometimes, all of these things in the same seat, even.

In most cases, seats are chosen by the manufacturer according to the type of bike and it's intended usage. But no two riders are alike, so ride the seat that comes with your new bike for a while. If you still feel like you've ridden 10 miles though you haven't even gotten to the end of your driveway, never fear, there are many types of seats available.

A question we're often asked is what kind of accessories do we recommend with a new bike. Here are some that most people choose.

Helmet.   Perhaps the most important accessory. You don't want to end up in a hospital wishing you had gotten one ... and unfortunately too many people do. Head injuries are the most common serious cycling injuries.
These days, helmets are lightweight, comfortable, well ventilated and suprisingly inexpensive. They use state of the art materials and designs. So, protect yourself and remember, wear that helmet every time you ride. The one time you don't wear it, may be the very time you need it the most.

Lock.  You also want to protect your new bike. There are many types of locks available these days from high security 'U-locks'  to cables with built in locks. If you rarely leave your bike parked anywhere except for the occasional run into store for a can of pop, a cable lock might be fine. However, if you do anticipate leaving your bike parked for longer periods of time or want the most security even for those short stops, get a U-lock. Make sure you lock both your real wheel and frame to something secure. We also recommend getting a cable to run through your front wheel if you use a U-lock and you don't plan on taking the wheel with you.

Water Bottle.   Hydration is important especially on longer rides or on hot days. In cycling, your system loses more fluids due to perspiration than you might realize. As you ride, a lot of air passes around you causing your perspiration to evaporate more quickly, more so than in most other sports. A water bottle and cage are very inexpensive and an easy way to avoid dehydration. You can also carry sports drinks in your water bottle and many bottled water containers will fit in the cage. And just so you know, don't replace that water or sports drink pop or beer. Both cause your system to work harder to break down the sugars or alcohol which only serves to create more body heat and neither replaces the fluids you need.

Flat Kit.  If you plan on riding further from home than you'd like to walk back, consider a flat kit and a small frame mounted pump.

At a minimum, the flat kit should include:
A new tube - it's quicker to replace the tube than to patch it.
A basic patch kit - in case you get more than one flat or if you get a hole in your tire.
Tire irons - to remove one side of the tire to get at the tube. Most tire irons come in a set of 3.
A wrench - to take off your wheels if you don't have quick release wheels.
A rag - to wipe your hands especially if you get a rear flat and have to work with your chain.
Money - just a few bucks in case of an emergency.
A small seat bag - to keep all this stuff in.

By the way, don't try to fill your tire to it's full pressure with your frame mounted pump after fixing the flat. Due to the small air chamber on these pumps, each stroke puts very little air in your tire so you'll be there all day. Just put in enough air to allow the tire to keep it's shape and add the rest at a gas station.

Mirror.  If you do a lot of riding on city streets you might want to get a rear view mirror. It's much safer to know what's going on behind you in traffic. Most mount securely on the end of your handlebar (left side). Helmet mirrors also work, but people find they spend too much time "aiming" the mirror to get a good view.

Other goodies include riding gloves for a better grip on your handlebar and less wear on your hands plus more comfort, eyewear to protect against foreign objects and the sun, energy foods and cycling shorts to get a little extra padding and wick away perspiration.

We hope this page has helped you with your decisions. And remember, the only stupid question is the one that isn't asked. No one was born knowing all about bicycles so feel ask all the questions you like.