You are in Gearing |
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So you feel a little overwhelmed by all those speeds? Not to worry. It's really very simple. |
The Basics
Most bikes these days have
anywhere from 18 to 27 speeds (gears). Why so many you ask? In order to make riding easier
over different kinds of terrain where you might go from slow hill climbing to flat roads,
you need a wide range of gears. |
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Mountain, Cross, Comfort and some Road bikes have 3 chainrings on the crank (that thing where the pedals are). These 'triple' cranks provide 3 'ranges' of speeds you can use depending on the kind of riding you're doing. The inner, smaller one, is for slower speeds and hill climbing. The middle one is for medium speeds on flat roads or small hills. The outer, larger one, is for higher speeds on flat roads. For most riding you will probably be using the middle chainring. |
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The freewheel (that group of sprockets on your rear wheel) which usually has between 6 and 9 sprockets allows you to make minor 'speed' changes within the basic 3 ranges. |
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But why as many as 9 sprockets?
The more sprockets there are on the back, the less change in 'speed' there is between each
shift. But now, with a larger selection of speeds
available, those differences are much smaller which translates to a smoother transition
between speeds. With a little practice, you can find a pedaling rate and pressure that's
comfortable for you and maintain it without having to play catch up. |
Shifting gears
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The shift lever or twist grip shifter on the left side of your handlebar is for the front derailleur or gear. This shifter moves the 'cage' surrounding the chain back and forth between the 3 sprockets on your crank which puts the chain on the sprocket you desire. This is where you choose your 3 basic gear ranges |
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The shifter on the right side of your handle bar is for the rear derailleur. This shifter moves the chain back and forth between the sprockets on the freewheel on your rear wheel. This is where you make the small changes within the range you chose using the front derailleur. |
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Proper gear usage
Using the proper gears is important for you and for your bike. Just as in any sport, if you want to know the proper way to use your 'equipment', watch how the professionals do it. For bicycle professionals, as for you, there are two main considerations. The first is getting the most speed and distance for the amount of energy expended. The second is wear and tear on themselves and their bikes. You will never see a professional rider struggling along in a hard, or low, gear or standing up on the bike except on steep inclines or when it's part of their race strategy. Most of the time you will see them pedaling at a high rate or cadence. For them this provides the most efficient transfer of energy to speed and distance as well as the best use of their overall physical energy. For you this means the best physical exercise as far as heart rate and physical conditioning are concerned. By pedaling at a high cadence, you are giving your heart a good workout and you're keeping the blood flowing throughout your system (most importantly your legs) which gives you the best cardiovascular workout. This higher cadence also reduces the wear and tear on you and on your bike. If you leave your bike in a high gear all the time, in other words a gear that's hard to pedal in, all you're doing is straining your joints and wearing yourself out faster. You're also doing damage to your bike. Each time you put a lot of force on your pedals, the rear end of your bike flexes to the right a little bit. This flexing causes extra wear on your chain, the chainrings on your crank, the sprockets on your freewheel, and the mechanism inside the freewheel (think of it as a ratchet) that provides the freewheeling action. For the professional rider, this extra wear and tear is a nuisance and unfortunately just a part of the sport. But for you, it means more trips to the bike shop more expensive repairs as your bike gets older. So in this case, being macho has no place. Back in the days of the single or even 3-speed bikes, you didn't have much choice in the matter. You do now, so use it wisely. |
By the numbers
Okay now, by the numbers. The
number 1 showing on the indicator on your rear shift lever (the lever or twist grip on the
right hand side of your handlebar) is usually hardest gear. As you push the shirt lever
down or away from you, or twist the twist grip towards you it gets easier to pedal. So, 1
is the hardest and 7,8 or 9 (depending on how many sprockets you have on your freewheel)
is the easiest. Simple, huh? Note: In some rare instances, these numbers are reversed. It will be obvious to you if this is the case. |
Technical stuff
This is the technical section and I promise I won't be too offended if you skip it. Gear ratios. A 1 to 1 gear ratio
on a bike means having the same number of teeth on the chainring of the crank as on the
sprocket of the freewheel. It also means that when you pedal your crank for one
revolution, your wheels rotate one revolution which moves your mass (the weight of you and
your bike combined) roughly five to seven feet depending on the size of your wheels. Inertia is also a factor. Once your bike is in motion, inertia kicks in and it takes less energy to keep it moving at a constant speed. Depending on the speed you reach, you might end up riding at a gear ratio of 3 or 4 to 1 or higher which is why you want to switch to lower gears when coming to a stop to be closer to the 1 to 1 ratio when you start up again. Crossover also comes into play.
Riding with your chain on the middle chainring in front and on a higher, or smaller
sprocket on the back gives you a particular gear ratio. If you switch to the large
chainring in the front and a lower, or smaller sprocket on the back, you can achieve
roughly the same gear ratio. This is called crossover. This comes in handy since it lets
you stay in the range of gears you chose with your selection of the front chainring
without having to switch chainrings. Ok, that's the end of the
technical stuff. |
Do's and don'ts
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Summation
Ok, let's
sum this all up. If you feel like you're pedaling too hard, use the right hand shifter to switch to an easier gear (like from 3 up to 7 on your shift lever indicator). If you feel like the pedaling is too easy or you're pedaling too fast, use the right hand shifter to switch to an harder gear (like from 8 down to 4). If you're riding in a hilly area, use the shifter on the left hand side to switch to the smaller (inside) chainring on your crank (position 1 on your shift lever indicator). If you're riding on a smooth flat surface and at a higher speed, use the left hand shifter to switch to the larger (outside) chainring (position number 3). For normal riding shift to the middle chainring (position number 2). That's about all there is to it. Enjoy your ride. |