Static Q&A / FAQs

Department store bike: What is the difference between a bicycle shop bike and a department store bike?
If you want a toy, go to Wal-Mart; if you want a bicycle, go to a bike shop. That says it all. Department store bikes have one advantage over bike shop quality bikes... price. You can get a bike for less than $100. That's where the advantage ends. If your objective is to save money, then a bicycle shop bike is still cheaper. Once you roll your new heavy, poorly adjusted, non-warrante bike home, then the real expense begins. The first stop will come when you have to take the monster to the local bike shop to have it adjusted properly. The local shop will not do this for free as they do with the bicycle you buy from them. The next expense will come steadily as you bend and break the various components on the bike. This isn't a prediction, it's a guarantee. Bicycle shops repair department store bikes 10-1 over any other quality bikes. The parts are made cheaply and of sub-par materials so they can attract the first time buyer with a low price.

Helmets: Which helmets are safest?
Helmets made for U.S. sale after March 10, 1999 must meet the US Consumer Product Safety Commission standard, so look inside the helmet for a CPSC sticker and for the Snell's B-95 and/or N-94 sticker. Proper fit is also an important safety issue. Also consider replacing your helmet every 5 years or so because the shock absorbtion materials can degrade over time. And remember, the safest helmet is the one you wear EVERY TIME YOU RIDE. Murphy's Law wise, the one time you don't wear it, could be the one time you need it the most. More info.

So many speeds: I have like a gazillion speeds on my bike. Why do I need so many?
The more speeds your bike has, the easier it is to ride over different kinds of terrain. More speeds also mean easier transitions between speeds when you shift gears allowing you to maintain a comfortable pedaling rate and pressure without having to 'catch up' as much after each shift. More info.

Quick release wheels: I'm not sure I'm using the quick release on my wheels properly. Can you help?
That's a pretty common question and one that needs to be answered for safety reasons. Click here for more info.

WD40: Can I use WD40 to lubricate my bike?
No, nein, nyet, nope, no way Jose. Get my drift? WD40 is NOT a lubricant, it's a solvent, and it can loosen frozen nuts and bolts. It can also stop squeaks, but then so can butter. For external surfaces such as chains, pivot points on gears and brakes, and for cables, etc. use a good machine oil, a lightweight motor oil or one of the synthetic lubricants.

3 in 1: Ok then what about 3 in 1 oil?
3 in 1 is better than WD40, but is still not a preferred lubricant for bicycles. It has a vegetable base and it tends to attract dust and dirt. Stick to the lubricants I suggested above.

Air pressure: How often should I check the air pressure in my tires?
If you ride your bike regularly, you should check your air pressure once a week. If you only ride once in a while, you should check it before each ride because tires can lose air just sitting around. More info.

Air pressure: What is the correct air pressure?
All tires have their suggested air pressure molded on the side of the tire. This is usually a range of pressures such as '45psi to 65psi'. The rule of thumb is to keep your tires about 5 psi under the highest listed pressure. There is also the 150 lb rule. If you weigh less than 150 lbs, you can keep them near the lower pressure and vice versa.

Oiling chain: How much oil should I put on my chain?
As little as possible. Too much oil causes a buildup of oil and dirt on your chain which can cause excessive wear on the chain and other parts of the drivetrain. You should be able to see the chain links clearly and they should leave just a little bit of oil on your fingers when you touch them. If your fingers come away all blackened and/or with a thick greasy 'paste' on them, it's time to clean your chain. More info.

Oiling chain: What kind of lubrication is best for my chain?
Talk to 10 people and you'll get 5 or more different answers. As a rule, a good quality 'machine' oil is the best. It provides a durable surface coating and it's natural capillary action allows it to penetrate deep 'inside' the chain to the pivot points where it's needed the most. A lightweight motor oil will also work quite well and has good penetrating qualities. Some of the synthetic spray lubricants on the market today are a bit easier to use and also work quite well but make sure they contain some kind of penetrant so they will soak in like natural oil does. And remember, don't over lubricate. A thin coating of lubricant on the outside of the chain is enough to protect the surface and usually indicates that there is enough lubricant 'inside'.

Oiling chain: If I have to replace my chain, which one should I buy?
It's best to replace an old chain with the same one that was used by the bike manufacturer. But that's not always possible. And since the decision depends on several factors such as the type of bike, the drivetrain components, and the number of speeds, etc., it's best to bring your bike to a bike shop so they can recommend the best chain for you.

Seat cables: I have a quick release seat and am afraid it will get stolen. What can I do?
You can take the seat with you. That's the safest way, but it's a pain. You can also replace the quick release mechanism with a binder bolt (a nut and bolt) or you can buy a seat cable. Seat cables are permanently fastened to the seat and to the frame to secure your seat and still allow you to raise and lower your seat if you chose.

Talcum powder: I bought cycling shorts and they're great, but I still have a problem with chaffing, etc. What can I do?
Sprinkle some talcum powder in the shorts right before your ride. That should do the trick. You can also use cornstarch which most people feel is even smoother, but don't use too much ... you're trying to ease the pain not make cornbread muffins.

Fixing a flat: Can you tell me a good way to fix a flat?
We get this question a lot, so we made a seperate page for it. Click here for more info.

Brake squeal: When I apply my brakes, they make a loud squealing sound. Help, it's embarassing.
That squeal is caused by the brake shoe(s) vibrating against the rim. Sometimes cleaning the rim with rubbing alcohol helps but toeing in the shoes works best. Whatever you do, don't put oil on the rim. (yes, people have done that) More info.

Brake squeal: A friend suggested I put a very light coating of oil on my rims to stop the horrible squealing sound they make. Any other suggestions?
While it's true that putting oil on your rims will stop that squeal, unfortunately it also means your bike will not stop when you apply the brakes. I wouldn't ask that friend for any more cycling advice. More info.

Wheel truing: My wheels wobble from side to side and hit the brake shoes. What can I do?
If your wheel is out of true or in other words moves from side to side between the brake shoes and maybe rubs against them, take it to your local bike shop. That wobble can be the result of one of several problems but can usually removed by adjusting the spokes, but that isn't something you should tackle yourself since it's a relatively complicated procedure. But if it's an emergency repair and you have no choice. Click here to see a basic solution.

Shoes: Is it okay to ride in sneakers?
Sure. They're great for casual riding because they're comfortable, stylish and ideal for walking when you're off the bike. The more you get into cycling, the longer distances you'll start to ride though, and you'll probably discover why riders prefer shoes made for the purpose. What happens with regular tennis shoes and sneakers is that the flexible soles and cushioning materials allow the pressure points on the pedals to stress the feet as you ride. This causes two problems: a loss of pedaling efficiency and worse, on rides over a couple of hours, it can lead to a painful condition called hot foot.

Aerodynamic Spokes: What is the advantage of aerodynamic spokes, if any?
When a bicycle is rolling, the spokes at the top of the wheel are moving at twice the bike's forward velocity. Bladed spokes produce much less turbulence and offer less wind resistance than round spokes.

Sealed hubs: I have sealed hubs on my wheels. What can I do for maintenance, if anything?
To maintain your hubs, use an X-Acto knife to carefully remove the seal on the end of the unit. Be certain not to damage the seal seats. Flush the entire unit with solvent. Let it dry completely, apply grease and replace the seal.

Chain slaps the chainstay: My chain slaps the chainstay when I stop pedaling, especially when it's on the small chainring. What should I do?
Your freewheel is probably sticking. When you coast, it continues to turn, which causes the chain to sag until there's enough tension to stop it. The large sprocket uses more links, so the chain doesn't sag as far before snapping back. Flush your freewheel with a solvent such as WD40, allow it to dry, then lubricate it with a light oil. Make sure to flush the oil through the freewheel until it comes out the other side to assure that the oil fills the freewheel completely.

Cleaning your bike: I clean my mountain bike at a car wash. Is there anything I should be careful of?
Don't point the spray hose directly at the hubs, bottom bracket (crank), or headset because you can displace the grease in the bearings. Also, since some seatposts are open on the top,  be careful not to spray water up under the seat since it could seep down inside the frame and cause rust.